Rowley Leigh - Financial Times

From FOOD & DRINK Feb 22, 2013

Recipe: pasta e ceci

©Andy Sewell

By the time you reach Milan, chickpea soup has become positively sybaritic with pancetta, vegetables and a shredded pig’s head

©Andy Sewell From FOOD & DRINK Feb 15, 2013

Recipe: mussels and chips

‘It is a leisurely occupation, nibbling a mussel, dipping a chip in the mayonnaise and then a mussel again…’

©Jonathan McHugh From COMMENT Feb 15, 2013

Britain does not pay enough for food

We may blame foreigners for our mishaps but the real fault lies at home, writes Rowley Leigh

©Andy Sewell From FOOD & DRINK Feb 8, 2013

Recipe: orange and frangipane pancakes

‘Thoughts of Lent turned my mind – with its slow but rhythmical way of looking at the world – to pancakes’

©Andy Sewell From FOOD & DRINK Feb 1, 2013

Recipe: daube de boeuf

The famous passage in ‘To the Lighthouse’ describing the daube of beef is, quite simply, full of howlers

©Andy Sewell From FOOD & DRINK Jan 25, 2013

Recipe: far Breton, or custard cake with prunes

‘It may not be French nursery food but it does inhabit a realm where food provokes a reverie of the past’

©Andy Sewell From FOOD & DRINK Jan 18, 2013

Recipe: rabbit with mustard

‘It is the simplicity of the dish – rabbit, mustard, water and cream – that is especially beguiling’

©Andy Sewell From FOOD & DRINK Jan 11, 2013

Recipe: beef consommé with oysters

‘The emergence of a shining clear liquor from the murky depths of a stock is a thing of beauty’

©Andy Sewell From FOOD & DRINK Dec 21, 2012

Recipe: quince and sherry trifle

‘To many there is only one trifle and that is their own or the one their mother, aunt or granny used to make’

©Andy Sewell From FOOD & DRINK Dec 14, 2012

Recipe: braised ham with cumberland sauce

‘At Christmas, I can do without turkey, smoked salmon, Stilton… but nothing can take the place of a good ham’

From FOOD & DRINK Dec 7, 2012

Recipe: venison chilli

‘The venison version of a Texas favourite worked really well, having an extra richness, and the gaminess complemented the heat’

From FOOD & DRINK Nov 30, 2012

Rowley Leigh’s Christmas Eve

The best celebrations start here. Rowley Leigh’s chef friends Fergus and Margot Henderson, Alastair Little, Thomasina Miers and Jeremy Lee bring their good food and good cheer to his party

From FOOD & DRINK Nov 23, 2012

Recipe: steamed sea bass with ginger and spring onions

Long before sea bass was popular on British menus, it was the fish of choice in most Chinese restaurants

From FOOD & DRINK Nov 16, 2012

Recipe: pheasant korma

‘Those who live in the country with freezers full of cheap game are probably already well-accustomed to pheasant curry’

From FOOD & DRINK Nov 9, 2012

Recipe: tarte fine aux pommes

‘A tarte fine should come bursting out of an oven, glistening with sugar’

From FOOD & DRINK Nov 2, 2012

Recipe: pumpkin soup with cream and Gruyère

‘Use a good, firm pumpkin and don’t do this dish unless you know your guests well’

From FOOD & DRINK Oct 26, 2012

Recipe: gurnard and prawn stew

‘It is good to approach the idea of a fish stew from a slightly different tack from that of bouillabaisse, much as I have come to like that dish’

From FOOD & DRINK Oct 19, 2012

Recipe: gnocchi verde

‘Like cheese or pasta, there is at least one type of dumpling or gnocchi for most regions of Italy’

From FOOD & DRINK Oct 12, 2012

Recipe: Waldorf salad

‘Most Britons had as little idea what a Waldorf salad consisted of as Basil Fawlty himself’

From FOOD & DRINK Oct 5, 2012

Recipe: Stuffed peppers, two ways

From Naples to Sicily, in two tasty red pepper recipes

ABOUT ROWLEY

Rowley Leigh writes a weekly column on cookery for the FT Weekend supplement.

E-mail rowley.leigh@ft.com

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