Geraldine, it sounds like the blotchy dry patches may be a result of dehydration in the colder months — something we call “radiator face”, which occurs as a result of going out into the cold and coming back into the warmth. Drops in temperature and humidity can affect our skin’s rate of TEWL — transepidermal water loss, the rate at which we lose moisture from our skin into the atmosphere.
Step one to give a go, in my opinion, would be to introduce a more lipidic (read: Fatty) moisturiser. Many of the lipids we find in skincare — for example, ceramides, fatty acids and squalane — can act in a biomimetic manner. OK, another nerdie word: They can mimic what our skin does to hydrate and protect itself. So, by topping your serums with something such as Holos Super Natural Activity Triple Lipid Replenish Cream (€42, holos.ie) or Skingredients Skin Good Fats (€42, skingredients.com), you are giving your skin a better chance of retainer moisture while simultaneously softening and soothing it.
On the point of exfoliating, a mild exfoliant will indeed help to reduce the appearance of dryness and flakiness.
However, coffee grinds are very harsh on the skin. Mechanical exfoliation can irritate the skin — even think about how red and tender your skin can be after wearing a particularly scratchy wool jumper!
Save the coffee grounds for any rough foot skin you may have and instead opt for enzymatic exfoliation. This sounds super technical but there are plenty of enzyme exfoliants on the market. Enzymes work to simply speed up chemical reactions, and when used in skincare, they essentially can gobble up dead skin cells without causing damage to the skin. They’re perfect for very sensitive skin and are particularly beneficial when our skin is a bit out of sorts.
I always keep a tube of the IMAGE Vital C Hydrating Enzyme Masque (€44.50, theskinnerd.com) on hand because it suits all skins, including my own skin if it’s a bit irritated. Not only is it full of fruit enzymes from papaya and pineapple but a blend of a number of types of vitamin C plus hyaluronic acid for brightening and hydrating benefits.
You only need to use your enzymatic exfoliator once or twice a week, but it’s so mild and skin-respectful that you could use it every day should you fancy it! Another topical hero you need is a vitamin A serum — vitamin A is key for normal skin function, so it will help your skin to retain moisture.
Readers of this column are sick of hearing this but upping your omega intake internally will also make a huge difference, as omegas are like an internal moisturiser. I usually recommend fish-based omegas, but if you prefer to opt for a plant-based supplement, MyProtein have a vegan algae-based Vegan Omega 3 Softgels (€20.99, myprotein.ie).
So, as I’ve mentioned, I do not love mechanical exfoliators, but this enzyme and acid gentle exfoliator works just as well when applied as a mask. In this exfoliator from Huda Kattan’s skincare line, you have exfoliating AHAs and BHAs for brightening and exfoliation, plus enzymes.
Like the majority of masks, this is more of an instant pick-me-up alongside your usual skincare routine, rather than being geared towards long-term results. It does what it says on the tube and, as an added bonus, it looks just beautiful on your skincare shelf — and you get a full 200ml, which is quite generous as the majority of exfoliators are much smaller in size.