Paul McLauchlan: The best fragrances for men this spring
Male fragrances: ”We’re in the business of bottling up emotions. I hope that people read the label and identify with that sentiment in its simplest form"
One of life’s greatest pleasures, innately personal in its sensuality, a dab of fragrance defines identities. For perfumiers this spring, the motive was clear: bring men a sense of place, even as they are sheltered indoors across the globe.
The promise of a new reality is encapsulated in a chorus of scents, from the likes of Loewe and Diptyque, Maison Margiela to Aesop, making fragrance the best accessory for the season ahead. From memories of experiences past and the possibility of their imminent return, the places we wish to escape to, and unisex gems suitable for everyone, updating your fragrances is as important as renewing your wardrobe.
Designed to reflect the collective mindset during this shapeless period, BYREDO’s Mixed Emotions signifies comfort and reassurance with bitter maté and sweet cassis alongside Ceylon black tea, birch wood, and papyrus.
”We’re in the business of bottling up emotions. I hope that people read the label and identify with that sentiment in its simplest form, and then find something deeper to relate to the juxtaposition between the familiar and the unfamiliar,” said Ben Gotham, founder and creative director of BYREDO.
While our locks have grown increasingly unruly during lockdown, At The Barbers by Maison Margiela Replica recalls the distinctly masculine ritual of visiting one—the razor gliding through your hair and the swish of fresh towels manifest in basil leaf, black pepper, tonka bean, and white musk. One day, quarantine cuts will be buried in the past.
Most men will desire something that will easily adapt to their daily routines, the final spritz before stepping out. For some cool, masculine crispness, consider dousing yourself with Aesop’s Hwyl to your routine whose merits revolve around the aromatic woodiness of Japanese Hiba trees, moss, and delicate spices, in addition to its striking smoky opening notes which have a bracing post-shave appeal.
The vegetal notes of the vetiver are deployed in a variety of scents for spring. Chantecaille’s Vetyver Cèdre, described aptly as “clean, dry, and woody,” evokes an Argentine polo club, with a sporty freshness. Diptyque’s Othoniel Rosa also draws on woody vetiver, juxtaposed with the richness of peppery rose, which gives the fragrance a striking quality.
As we become more restless and yearn for travel, Loewe replicates the Mediterranean with Pour Homme — bottled in a terracotta-hued glass flask — an earthy profile of vetiver, sandalwood, and amber. Also inspired by the great outdoors, Dior Sauvage has woody and spicy accords, now sold in a recyclable eau de toilette refill bottle, is a vaunted scent with an irresistible air - the sustainability element is worth noting too. Both reflect intrinsically masculine tastes.
Meanwhile, Aesop’s Marrakech Intense combines warm Egyptian jasmine with bright bergamot which emits sensuality and spiciness. Emma Corrin, the Golden Globe-winning actress who plays Princess Diana in The Crown, is a notable wearer. Road-tested by this writer, the fragrance is lively but not overly sweet, blurring the lines between masculine and feminine.
A unisex blend is a difficult balance to strike. Yet there are some winners. The aforementioned new release from BYREDO, Aesop’s staple Hwyl and Marrakech Intense are just some of a growing flurry of genderless scents.
From Armani Privé, Cyprès Pantelleria, undoubtedly unisex, alludes to the rocky shores of the island Pantelleria with its vegetal and maritime olfactory composition suitable for men or women. The “uncomplicated perfume” (labelled thus by Alberto Morillas, the ‘nose’ who creates Armani Privé fragrances) is a worthy addition to any cabinet.
This season, another unisex style comes from Chanel. Le Lion de Chanel, from the brand’s luxurious Les Exclusifs range, is inspired by the founder Gabrielle ‘Coco’ Chanel’s astrological sign, Leo. Olivier Polge, the perfumer-creator for Chanel, endeavoured to evoke the lion’s “radiant strength” by incorporating lemon and bergamot, cistus labdanum (a resin with animal notes), vanilla, which fuses with rougher amber and leather accords.
